Christmas Vacation

As we approached Christmas Day, we queued up holiday movies at the Hardison house. We began a little earlier with Elf, followed that with Home Alone, and then capped things off – on Christmas Eve – with the Chevy Chase classic, Christmas Vacation. My last three Christmases have all been after I left cold Chicago and moved to warmer climes, and while for most of my Chicago years I would be in LA or somewhere warm anyway, it was still weird for me to approach Christmas here (and my vacation) with such warm weather. I’m used to the twenty-one winters of snow and cold that I experienced in Chicago. Believe me…I am not complaining that it was warm and sunny here as December came to its end. But it still felt weird to watch snowy Christmas movies and be surrounded by the warmth of Antigua Guatemala.

One view of the fireworks at midnight on Christmas Eve.

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The Holiday Season at Canela Antigua

The lead-up to Thanksgiving had been big, and while December had started quietly, I was hoping for a boost in business as we got closer to Christmas. The second Tuesday of the month coincided with the start of Hanukkah, and as I prepared to co-host our monthly Shabbat group for a Hanukkah dinner, I tested out doughnuts.

Testing out the first round of Canela doughnuts.

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Cayalá at Christmastime

With the arrival of December, it meant two critical things: 1) Christmas season was fully upon us here in Guatemala; and 2) Jeffrey was back from his time in the States. The two go hand-in-hand, because with a more experienced Alis and the return of a lead baker, that means some of the heavy burden of the bakery can come off my shoulders. It also meant that not only did I not have to get started at 6 am everyday to bake the bread and start the next day’s bread dough, but also that I could step away from the bakery as needed, or desired. I could run errands during the day, instead of after we closed. I could go to the city. I could relax. I could stay in bed a little later. I was so excited about what this meant for me!

The view from my bedroom, on the first morning of December.

Challah baked in pans, perfect for French toast.

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Another Guatemalan Thanksgiving

It was exciting to think about what Thanksgiving might bring to Canela Antigua. I know there are plenty of expats who’d be in town for the holiday, but would they go with the known quantities of Thanksgiving pie-making (such as Epicure or San Martin), or would they give the new guy a chance?

Bethany helped me decide on the flavors to offer, and it was fun to announce it and see what would happen. While waiting for the orders to start rolling in, I wanted to test the pies out and iron out any kinks. I’d made everything before…but never here, and never with the current set of ingredients and equipment.

This three-kilo can of pumpkin is ready for the orders to come flying in.

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Leaving the Bakery in Excellent Hands

Picking up from the end of the last blog post, Bethany started showing up to the bakery nearly every day. We had already decided that teaching her how to make the sourdough bread in such a short period of time wasn’t going to work, so we planned that I’d make enough bread dough for the first two days I was gone, and the bakery would be sourdough-less for the weekend. However, Bethany was a quick study on making challah and bagels, both of which Alis was also becoming proficient with.

Bethany and Alis roll out babka dough.

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A New Year Brings New Experiences

What was missing from the previous post, about my return to LA, was how surreal it was. Antigua life and SoCal life are completely different, in nearly every way. And yet, it wasn’t culture shock that settled in almost immediately upon landing in Los Angeles. It was a disconnect with reality. LA felt familiar, as would be expected. But as I started doing the same exact things I had done before leaving (driving to see friends, walking around my neighborhood, hanging out at my parents’ house), it was both comfortable and bizarre at the same time. It’s hard to describe, but the best way I answered the question when people asked me what it was like to be back, was, “When I’m here in LA, the Antigua life seems like a dream, and when I’m there, LA seems like a dream.”  Each place feels normal when I’m there and unreal when I’m not.

Anyway…while I was sad to leave friends and family behind, there was a calmness that returned when I landed back in Guatemala. Red-eyes are never fun, so while there was calmness, there was also a bit of disorientation borne of exhaustion. Jeffrey had been maintaining the sourdough starter, so he met me at the bakery and we sleep-walked through our typical Monday prep. As soon as he was gone, I collapsed!

Jeffrey spruces up the wall behind our main display area.

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Visas and Weddings and Pastrami and More

After ninety days in Guatemala, you don’t have to leave the country. You have the option to renew your tourist stamp with a 90-day extension. After that, however, you must leave the CA-4 (Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua) for what is generally understood to be 72 hours but doesn’t seem to be written down anywhere. Regardless of the limit, I took the opportunity and fortuitous timing of my 180-day clock to return to Los Angeles for an extended trip. Between the wedding of good friends Beth and Mark, the arrival of Rosh Hashanah, and the September slowdown in the bakery, it made sense to close up shop for two weeks, relax a bit, and enjoy the opportunity to recharge.

Originally, however, I had hoped to start this trip in Chicago to visit my sister and brother-in-law. However, it turned out that Maggie’s work schedule was going to have her in Atlanta during that week, and so I booked a trip just to LA. But as (bad) luck would have it, with Hurricane Irma pounding the Florida and Georgia area, Maggie’s weeklong conference was canceled a few days before my trip to LA. Instead, she was asked to go to a business meeting in Orange County, arriving on the same day that I would! We quickly made a plan to see each other, with me driving down to her hotel. While she wasn’t going to have much time to spend during the 20 hours on the ground, I pledged to make the most of it.

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